AllMyCar.info

Glass is a very problematic material to use in cars, mini-vans and SUVs. Even with safety glass it can cause issues and increase injuries. If you have ever been in an accident, ran up to help someone who had or seen a vehicle that had been in an accident afterwards you know the serious nature of glass and the damage it can cause to flesh and bone mortals.

Glass of course does have many good properties as well; it is transparent, hard and can be easily molded when manufactured. Of course the unfortunate properties include brittleness and jagged edges when it fails. In the future we will not have to worry about injuries caused by glass in traffic accidents, SUV rollovers or falling trees.

Why not you ask? Because Carbon Nanotube sheets can be made so thin that they will be transparent and you can see through them. They will also be somewhat flexible allowing for impact without major injury. These windshields will be 50 times stronger than steel and harder than glass, but they will not be brittle and will not break.

Additionally carbon nanotube windshields will be light-weight and the average car has up to 400 pounds of glass on it. By lowering the cars weight you increase its performance and gas mileage and can even put a smaller motor in the car and thus use even less fuel still. Think on this in 2006.

Lance Winslow - Online Think Tank forum board. If you have innovative thoughts and unique perspectives, come think with Lance; www.WorldThinkTank.net/wttbbs/

Collectors and ordinary people alike know what it feels like to get into a classic car. That sense of nostalgia, that sensation of traveling back to a long-gone era of automotive design. There is a very good reason why classic cars are so highly valued and prized by collectors. A classic car sale can be a very taxing event to get to, especially if one is selling to an experienced collector of those nostalgic machines. A classic car sale can very often depend on how much the seller knows about the details of the car that he is trying to sell.

To find a classic car in good condition is rare; finding one in truly good condition is nearly impossible. Yet, all too often, a classic car sale can depend on the external condition of the car in question. Collectors and enthusiasts tend to look over the outward appearance of the car. These people will scrutinize every inch of the automobile and the ones that truly know their stuff will mentally compare what you’re selling to the image of the car when it was fresh from the factory. Some of the more devoted fans will even examine the underbelly of the car, or the engine, in order to see if it still fits under the original specifications of the manufacturer or if there have been alterations. Depending on the tastes of the individual prospective buyer, that may or may not break the sale right then and there. For the most part, a well-maintained and dutifully restored classic Chevy Impala, at a reasonable price, is easier to sell than a Chevy Impala that has been modified for drag racing or for modern driving.

Another consideration in potential buyer’s minds that can make or break a classic car sale is the price. Humans, by nature, love bargains and car collectors are, generally, no exception. For the most part, they are aware of around how much the price of the car they’re interested in and will attempt to haggle in order to get a price that fits their budget, but not straying too far from the estimate. Most sellers are also aware of the value of a car, though like art, these values are best summed up as rough estimates rather than hard, stable prices. It is at the negotiation table that both buyer and seller attempt to outwit the other to get an advantage. However, the fluctuating prices and overall lack of selection tends to favor the sellers rather than the buyers.

The classic car sale can be dangerous because it can be accurately described as a seller’s market. The prices fluctuate constantly and there is hardly any consistent pattern with regards to pricing, so a seller can easily manipulate it to his advantage. A typical tactic is to subtly remind the buyer that the price is current and it may not be that way the next time he finds a car of the same make and model for sale, provided he does find one. It is also more common for sellers to casually mention that while a buyer might find the same make and model for a lower price, he is unlikely to find one in his area. However, as daunting as that may sound, a majority of sellers are willing to negotiate for a fairer price with the buyer, especially if the model of car that is being sold is not the popular model of the time.

A classic car sale can be a complicated and daunting prospect, but it does not have to be that way. If you’re the buyer, be prepared to inspect the car thoroughly and to engage in haggling and negotiations over price. If you’re the seller, make sure that you’ve managed to keep the vehicle well-maintained and be prepared to go defend your asking price in the event that your prospective buyer wants to re-negotiate. The market for vintage automobiles can be a tight-knit place but a classic car sale does not have to become an ordeal for buyer and seller alike.

For more valuable information on Classic Car Sale, please visit http://classifieds.itrustmotors.com//cgi-bin/classifieds.cgi?db=classic

Reader Question: I want to flush the radiator in my car, how do I do it and why should I?
Thanks in advance,
Mark W.

Mark, the first question that comes to mind is WHY do you want to do this? Red flags go up in my head when customers ask me a “how do I…” question. Some people not only like to diagnose their car problems themselves, but they want to perform the operation as well. This can be a great thing, but only if the diagnosis was correct. If it was not you just wasted your time and money. So my question back to the customer would be “what is the problem you are experiencing, and why do you think this operation will solve the problem?” Boy do I get a blank stare then!

“Flushing” a radiator sounds like a wonderful thing to have done periodically to your vehicle, but what does it actually do? You probably have a mental picture of this high powered jet blast of water mixed with some kind of detergent that removes all the gunk that has accumulated in the radiator, and after doing this procedure your car will not only run “cooler” but… “better”, right? I mean this gunk has probably been the source of your “engine robbing performance” in your mini van for months, right? I hate to put a damper on your parade, but we need to talk.

Most radiators today are small, made of light weight aluminum, and crammed so tightly in the front of the car you can barely see it let alone “flush” it. The neck of the radiator (where you pour in the antifreeze) is usually angled in such a way that it is impossible to pour in the antifreeze, or even SEE the antifreeze for that matter.

The inside of the radiator is made up of a honey comb maze of rows, or “sipes” that sends the hot antifreeze on a long meandering journey from left to right of the radiator. Air is being forced through fins on the outside of the radiator to cool down the antifreeze inside the radiator.

Ok, I hope you are still with me because here is the answer to the question. Where does dirt and sediment accumulate in the radiator, at the top or the bottom? The bottom of the radiator will trap the majority of the rust, dirt and sediment.

You can try as hard as you want to, but you will not be able to remove enough of this compacted material to do any real significance in engine performance. The way the radiator is designed internally prevents the access of any high pressure action that you might be able to insert into the small opening of the radiator neck located at the top of the radiator.

At my shop the term “flushing” the cooling system has been replaced with “draining and refilling” the cooling system. Removing the lower radiator hose, or if equipped use the radiator drain cock to drain out the old antifreeze and replace with the new fluid is essentially “draining and refilling the cooling system.”

This of course will only remove any minor surface debris along with the old contaminated fluid, and will probably NOT cure any over-heating complaints you might have been experiencing. Calcium and rust build up within the sipes are the main causes of radiator stoppages, and will cause a over-heating complaint. If this is the case, removal of the radiator from the car for disassembling and rebuilding, or replacing the radiator are really the only two viable options.

Yes, there are many “radiator flush” additives on the market, but most are not to be used in aluminum radiators (which all newer vehicles are equipped with), or just flat out don’t work. There are very few (ok, probably only one or two) problems with a motor vehicle that can be solved by the contents of a can.

So, in a nut shell…draining and refilling your radiator with new antifreeze every two to three years WILL help maintain and extend the life of your vehicle, but will probably NOT have an impact on the way it drives, overall fuel economy, cure a major over-heating problem, or improve handling in wet weather.

Also for added maintenance, ask your mechanic to inspect the radiator and heater hoses, and test or replace the radiator cap when replacing the antifreeze.

Learn about things like Radiator

Flush Check engine light and Brake rotors

For most people in India, buying a car is an investment , and there are certain steps to be taken to maintain your car for good performance, mileage and also a good resale value.

As a car’s engine ages, its performance level decreases and the oil starts to break down at an increasing rate. Over time, the seals begin to break down, gaskets become very brittle, and the engine’s oil consumption increases. All of these factors lead to a steady reduction in engine performance.

Here are a few tips for maintaining your high mileage car:

1.Make it a point to change your car’s engine oil every 3 months or 3,000 Kms, whichever comes first .This is an important procedure , as the engine is the heart of your car and motor oil is the lifeblood. One can’t function without the other, so be very diligent with your oil-change schedule.

2.Check the air pressure in your car’s tires at least once a month in order to prevent unexpected flats and excess tire wear . Cars which don’t have the correct air pressure will lose a lot of mileage too.

3.Look for warning signs. Of course, not every little noise you hear means something is wrong. Cars, like people, have their peculiarities, and you’ll quickly learn what is normal for your car.

But with a high mileage car, it’s best to check out any symptom, be it a sound, smell, or just a feeling that seems the slightest bit out of the ordinary. Remember, an ounce of prevention really is worth a pound of cure!

4.Pay attention to outward signs. If your car is leaking oil or coolant, it could indicate a serious problem. Look carefully at your driveway or parking space for oil stains or spots that can warn you of possible fluid leaks.

High Mileage motor oils contain special conditioners that help keep your seals in good condition. Protecting the seals helps to reduce leakage which is a common problem in older, higher-mileage car engines.

5.Have your car tuned-up regularly. Even if your high mileage car seems ok, that’s no guarantee that it is. Use regular tune-ups to make sure your car’s major parts are running well and that they continue to do so.

6.Check your car’s fluids on a regular basis.Keep your air filters clean and replace the fuel filters at regular intervals.

7.Store your car properly. Keeping your car in a dry, temperate location when it’s not in use will help prevent wear and tear, both inside and out. Keeping your car in a garage whenever possible will help keep it looking good.

8.Don’t neglect your car’s safety features! Nothing is more important than your car’s ability to keep you and your passengers safe. Your car’s brakes, air bags, and any other safety features should be carefully checked on a regular basis (when your car has a tune-up is a great time) to ensure the safety of you and those you love.

Copyright of Sandeep, Working as a content writer for Anaga Solutions and Fowler Filters.

The carburetor is a part of the engine that allows it to do the job it is intended to do. It carefully mixes the right amount of air and fuel to allow combustion and produce power. Without this device, the engines would not work. During the 1980s this device was replaced by the automatic fuel injector. However, the carburetor is still very common in some high-performance vehicles, as well as motorcycles and many other small engines.

Maintenance Steps

It is very important to keep the carburetor clean for it to run properly. If the carburetor is not periodically cleaned and maintained, its ability to regulate the combustion can seriously be compromised, resulting in the motor to not run properly.

The first step in keeping your carburetor running properly is to remove it from your motor. After you have done so you will be able to clean it, disassemble it, and keep it in running condition.

How to Clean

After you remove the carburetor from the motor, cleaning it in a cleaning solvent would be the first thing you should do. You can do this by using a special tool designed for cleaning carburetors. After you have cleaned the carburetor with the cleaning solvent, as well as finished disassembling it, you must then make sure that all ports and jets are cleared. You can accomplish this by flushing out these parts with compressed air.

It is very important that you use proper care when cleaning out the carburetor. If you intend to do this, make sure that you use the proper equipment necessary perform this function. Do not use wires, or other machine-powered products to clean the carburetor. This is because the carburetor is carefully calibrated to a specific setting. Using those products might damage the product.

Carburetors provides detailed information on Carburetors, Carburetor Kits, Rebuilt Carburetors, Carburetor Parts and more. Carburetors is affiliated with Wheel Bearings.

A mobile car wash business is an excellent business indeed. It is simple; no inventory, no location and for the most part a cash business too. Yet with all its simplicity one has to ask the obvious question; How on Earth do you keep the workers in your mobile car wash business from stealing your cash when you are not there? Well, indeed, the human level of integrity makes one wonder sometimes, as you give someone a job and then they go and steal from you? It is a rather sad state of affairs isn’t it? But do not let this get you down, as there is a way to prevent employee theft of the daily cash.

The best way to solve this issue of missing dollars is to use the human innate characteristics of such want to prevent them from stealing. For instance; Run a crew of two; one truck manager and one worker. Give your crew a $10.00 bonus for signing car wash customer up via credit card for 12 washes in advance. Then give the first wash on the spot to the customer for free. This will mean you have the money in advance so there will be less actual cash trading hands, therefore it cannot be stolen. The crew will want to sign many customers up on a pre-pay to get the bonus each week.

Next you need to pay the man riding shotgun, the worker $8-10 per hour and the crew leader (manager of the truck) a salary plus commission of what that unit does. If the crew leader starts stealing money the $8-10 per hour man will turn him in so he can have the better job after you fire the truck manager for stealing. The crew leader would not allow the $8-10 per hour worker to steal because it would come out of his perceived entitlement, the bonus? The bonus can be as little as 15% for this to work. Also keep switching crews a lot, so each $8-10 per hour worker learns the routes and do not be afraid to fire cheaters, liars or thieves.

Hello my name is Lance Winslow and I am the Founder of the Car Wash Guys, this is what we do and it works. If you are worried or are currently having problems with your employees stealing your cash, please think on this.

Lance Winslow - Online Think Tank forum board. If you have innovative thoughts and unique perspectives, come think with Lance; www.WorldThinkTank.net/wttbbs/

In any business marketing or strategic plan, you must always complete the operation and evaluate what you have learned. Those companies and non-profit groups who do will use this information to propel themselves in the market. Those who do not will be doomed to repeat past follies time and time again. Car Wash Fundraisers are no different. Here is advice after doing hundreds of car wash fundraisers for your post evaluation and collection of funds.

COLLECTING PLEDGES

Try to make sure the same people that received the pledges knock on the same doors to collect them. With corporate pledges, the leader of your group or the treasurer should go to the company to personally collect the funds and thank them for supporting your group. If your members are reluctant to go back to collect pledges, send them in teams of two or three and cover all of their corresponding areas. If someone refuses to pay, act very sad and tell them how hard you worked. Obviously you are not going to sue them, if they fail to pay and threatening them makes no sense, there are just really scummy people in the world and that perhaps is a lesson all in itself?

EVALUATION

Try to be objective. If you can’t, just tell everyone they did a perfect job and pat yourself on the back. If you think you can be a little objective, ask yourself:

What went wrong?

Did you meet your ticket goals?

How were pledges?

Did anyone complain and if so about what?

Was the property owner happy?

Did you use due diligence with wash water run off?

Did you cause a traffic problem?

How long was the line of cars?

Was your team exhausted?

Did anyone’s temper get out of hand?

Did everyone enjoy themselves?

How much money did you make?

Could you have made more?

This will give you a very good start in evaluating your car wash fundraisers success. Then ask yourself these questions:

What could you change for next year?

What problems would that solve?

Would this create other problems?

Write down four to five pages. Be honest. This information will truly be invaluable for next year’s car wash fundraiser group. Send your evaluations to our author. Fax them to 1-888-WASH-GAL. Is there anything left out of this book that you believe was significant? If you belong to a national organization send your basic plan and evaluation to them also. Other chapters of your organization may be planning a car wash fundraiser. No sense in making the same mistakes twice. These other chapters will have similar make ups of people types, ages and values that are different than other organizations. I have visited hundreds of organizations. I have watched them make mistakes at car washes that I myself hadn’t thought of. Most of these mistakes are mentioned in this book. But there will always be new pitfalls. If you do everything in this book you can be successful and beat your projections even if you make a few mistakes along the way. Share your information and your wealth.

New additions to this book can be found on the Car Wash Guys International, Inc. corporate web site. The address is:

http://www.carwashguys.com/fundraisers/LAschools.html

SET A TENTATIVE DATE FOR NEXT YEAR

Put your evaluation pages in a folder with a piece of paper recommending a tentative date for next year’s car wash fundraiser. Put a big rubber band on the folder so nothing falls out. Write across the folder “Top Secret - Car Wash Fundraising Information” at a 45

Given the sheer number of trailer varieties available and the custom options that can be added, it’s easy to feel overwhelmed with choices. Buying a new trailer is simple once you know a few basics.

The first place to start in assessing your need is to decide whether you’ll need an open trailer or an enclosed trailer. Open trailers are normally used for hauling the following:

1. Cars

2. Motorcycles

3. ATVs

4. Farm tractors

5. Lawn equipment

6. Materials to be dumped

Enclosed trailers are commonly used for hauling the following:

1. Cars

2. Motorcycles

3. ATVs

4. Snowmobiles

5. Miscellaneous equipment

6. General cargo

7. Contracting supplies

8. Concessions

In the cases above (where the lists overlap), enclosed trailers offer an extra level of protection against road hazards, UV light damage, and inclement weather, while also providing a greater level of security against theft and vandalism.

Size is your next consideration–the maximum towing capacity and maximum tongue weight of your tow vehicle are limiting factors. Determine the weight of your trailer when fully loaded with what you typically plan to haul. Underestimating here can lead to problems later on, so know in advance the precise weight of the specific items you’ll usually tow or have them weighed if you’re uncertain.

Weight plays an important part in determining how many axles your trailer will need. A tandem axle trailer is better suited for the heaviest loads, a single axle trailer is best suited for moderate to light loads.

Lastly, consider the length and height of the trailer. A longer trailer requires deter maneuvering through tight spaces. A taller trailer may hold more cargo, but one with a lower profile will be more aerodynamic and will save on fuel costs.

Jennifer Smith and her husband Randy own Smith Trailer & Equipment. They are located in Cincinnati and sell trailers nationally. Jennifer can be reached at http://www.SmithTrailers.com/

Women certainly are not helpless. But sometimes we are a little overwhelmed working a 40-hour week, taking care of the children, cooking, cleaning, and doing laundry. The car is just another added burden when there isn’t a man around to tinker with it.

For the woman who finds herself in this situation, this is a short primer on routine tire care that will extend the life of your tires and hopefully make your life a little bit easier.

Check Tire Pressure Regularly:

Tire pressure should be checked whenever you suspect a problem or at a minimum, seasonally.
Symptoms of improper tire pressure include excess wear and squeeling when going around a corner (for under-inflated tires) and reduced traction (for over-inflated tires).

Even the temperature can affect your tire pressure. Check your owner’s manual to find where they’ve posted the proper tire pressure (usually on one of the doors) and be sure to keep it at that level. An improperly inflated tire not only wears quicker, it can also be dangerous when stopping and can cause tread separation.

You can purchase a tire-pressure gauge at your local auto parts store, use a gauge at the gas station or ask your tire dealer to check it for you.

Have Your Tires Rotated:

Tires should be rotated every 5000 - 6000 miles. For various reasons, all four tires on a car do not wear the same. The purpose of the tire rotation is to allow for even wear and an extended life for your tires.

Some manufacturers recommend “cross-rotation” (moving the right-front tire to the left-rear, etc.). Check your owner’s manual for it’s recommendations. Have your tire dealer rotate your tires regularly.

Check Your Wheel Alignment:

If you’ve hit a pothole or scraped your tire on a curb, your wheels may have been thrown out of alignment. Symptoms of wheels that are out of alignment are excessive wear (one tire may wear more than the others) and steering problems. You may notice that your car veers to the side when you’re on a straight road or the car doesn’t steer properly in a turn.

Unless you notice any of these symptons, you should have your alignment checked annually.

Have Your Wheels Balanced at the Same Time They’re Rotated:

An improperly balanced wheel will cause a vibration at higher speeds (50-70 MPH) which is noticable in the steering wheel (if a front tire is out of balance) or in the seat (if a rear tire is out of balance). It will also increase wear of shock absorbers, struts and suspensions.

If you notice any of these symptoms, you should have your tire dealer take a look. He will need to locate the heavier part of the tire and attach a lead weight opposite it to counter-balance it.

Unless you notice any of these symptoms, you should have your wheel balanced every time you have them rotated (every 5000 - 6000 miles).

Debbie Pettitt is webmaster for Everything Tires
For additional articles and information regarding tires, visit http://everythingtires.com